Wardrobe Selection & Design Guide: Internal Structure Planning & Ergonomic Sizing

The wardrobe is the most frequently used storage furniture in a home, but many people only realize after buying one: wasted space, hanging sections that are too short, too few drawers... This article helps you plan your wardrobe from the perspective of internal structure and ergonomics.

📐 Wardrobe External Dimensions Reference

Depth (Carcass Depth)

Standard depth: 55-60cm (ensures clothes can hang sideways without shoulder compression)
Minimum depth: ≥ 50cm (otherwise clothes will hit the door when hung)
Sliding door wardrobes: Account for an additional 6-8cm taken by the sliding door track, reducing effective internal depth

Height

Standard height: 200-240cm (determined by ceiling height)
Floor-to-ceiling cabinets: Maximize top space, but require a stool to access top items
Comfortable reach height: 0-180cm (range accessible with both hands)

Width

Determined by room space and storage needs
Most common: 120-300cm (multi-door combinations)

🗂️ Internal Structure Planning Principles

Zoning by Clothing Type

1. Long Hanging Section

For coats, dresses, long jackets
Section height: ≥ 140cm (coats can reach 130cm)
Average per person: 60-90cm wide

2. Short Hanging Section (Double Hanging)

Uses the same vertical space for two tiers of hanging
Suitable for: tops, pants, suit jackets
Height per tier: 90-100cm
Double hanging sections are 2x more space-efficient than single long hanging sections

3. Folding Section (Shelf Area)

T-shirts, knitwear, jeans
Shelf spacing: 30-35cm (for folded clothes)
Width per compartment: 40-50cm recommended (too wide is unstable)

4. Drawer Section

Underwear, socks, small items
Depth: 40-50cm (standard drawer)
Drawer height: 15-25cm (depends on item type)

5. Cubby Section (Low Access Frequency)

Bags, suitcases, blankets, large items
Shelf spacing: 40-50cm
Usually placed at the top (infrequently accessed)

👗 Estimating Clothing Quantities (Measure Before Designing)

Reference for hanging space required per clothing type:

Clothing Type	Width Required per Item
Shirt/T-shirt	3-4cm
Dress/Regular Jacket	4-5cm
Down Jacket/Heavy Coat	7-9cm
Suit	4-5cm

Calculation method: Count the number and types of your clothes → Calculate total width needed → Allocate sections

🔩 Internal Structure Materials

Shelf Materials

Melamine Particleboard (Particleboard + Laminate)

Most common material in furniture
Advantages: Low cost, smooth surface
Disadvantages: Source of formaldehyde; poor edge banding leads to moisture absorption and warping
Pay attention to environmental rating (E0 or higher)

Multi-layer Solid Wood Board

More stable, better load-bearing, less prone to warping
Higher price than particleboard
Recommended for mid-to-high-end wardrobes

Metal Shelves (Aluminum/Steel)

Strong load-bearing capacity
Good breathability (doesn't trap dust)
Commonly used in open walk-in closets

Shelf Thickness & Load-Bearing

Shelf Span	Minimum Thickness Requirement
≤ 60cm	16mm
60-90cm	18-20mm
90-120cm	25mm (or add center support)

Important: Thin shelves will bow over large spans, especially when holding heavy items (blankets, boxes).

🚪 Door Type Comparison

Hinged Doors (Swing Doors)

Advantages: Good sealing, clean visual appearance
Disadvantages: Requires clearance for door swing (approx. 50-60cm)
Suitable for: Standalone bedrooms with enough door swing space

Sliding Doors (Bypass Doors)

Advantages: No extra door swing space needed, saves bedroom space
Disadvantages: Only half accessible at a time; inconvenient for accessing the middle section
Suitable for: Small bedrooms, tight spaces

Folding Doors (Bi-fold Doors)

Falls between the two
Takes up less space than hinged doors when open
Hardware (hinges) is prone to wear over time

💡 Common Internal Structure Design Mistakes

Mistake 1: All Hanging Sections, No Folding or Drawer Sections

→ A large number of T-shirts and underwear have no place for folded storage, ending up in a messy pile.

Correct ratio: Hanging sections should account for about 50-60%, folding + drawer sections for about 40-50%.

Mistake 2: Shelf Spacing Too Large (Over 40cm)

→ Folded clothes are stacked too high; pulling out a bottom item causes the whole stack to collapse.

Correct: Folding section shelf spacing should be 30-35cm, with 5-8 items per compartment.

Mistake 3: Insufficient Long Hanging Section Space

→ Coats hit the bottom panel, forcing you to hang them awkwardly.

Correct: Check your longest garment; ensure the distance from the hanging rod to the bottom panel is ≥ garment length + 5cm.

Mistake 4: No Dedicated Accessory Section

→ Belts, ties, bags have no designated spot and end up hung everywhere.

Suggestion: Design a 20-30cm wide accessory compartment (can hold a tie rack, belt hooks).

Mistake 5: Fixed Shelves at the Top

→ Blankets and suitcases are too large to fit.

Correct: Leave a tall, open area at the top without intermediate shelves.

🎯 Custom vs. Ready-Made Wardrobes

	Custom Wardrobe	Ready-Made Wardrobe
Size Fit	Perfectly matches the space	Fixed dimensions; gaps need treatment
Internal Layout	Fully customizable	Fixed layout, few adjustable options
Price	More expensive (priced per linear meter)	Relatively cheaper
Flexibility	Difficult to modify after installation	Can be moved and reconfigured
Environmental Rating	Depends on manufacturer, needs verification	Can check third-party test reports

Recommendation: If you are renovating, custom is more logical; if renting or unsure of your stay duration, ready-made offers more flexibility.

📋 Preparation Checklist Before Customizing a Wardrobe

Measure wall dimensions (Width × Height × Depth)
Confirm door opening method (Hinged / Sliding)
Count total clothing quantity and types
Determine required functional zones (Hanging / Folding / Drawers / Cubby)
Confirm hallway/passage width (required for hinged doors)
Verify material environmental rating (E0 or higher)
Confirm hardware quality (hinges, drawer slides)

This article is written based on interior design and furniture materials science knowledge and contains no brand recommendations.